Fusi Istriani Revisited

In 2012, I wrote about fusi istriani, an origami-like shaped pasta from Italy’s Friuli-Venezia Giulia region. Working with a small dowel and some triangular-shaped pieces of pasta, I created a close approximation of the shape illustrated in Oretta Zanini De Vita’s Encyclopedia of Pasta [2009].

I ended my fusi istriani post with a passing reference to a variant created by wrapping a small piece of square pasta around the handle of a wooden spoon (or, traditionally, a spindle) to form a penne-like pasta. During my research, I found more references to and images of this tubular fusi than its shapely triangular counterpart. Although both shapes come together quickly once you get the hang of making them, you can make the tubular version more quickly and without a dowel, spoon handle or spindle. Here’s the process I followed.

1. Sift 300 grams 00 flour into a work bowl. Add 3 large eggs and mix the dough until it comes together into a rough ball.

2. Turn the dough out of the bowl onto a work surface and knead the dough for approximately 10 minutes. Wrap the kneaded dough in plastic and let it rest on the work surface for 20 to 30 minutes.

3. Cut the dough into quarters. Working with one-quarter of the dough at a time (keeping the remaining dough wrapped in plastic), roll the dough to a thickness of approximately 1 mm. (I roll the dough to setting 3 on an Imperia 220.)

4. Cut the pasta sheets lengthwise into 1½-inch strips. Cut the strips into 1½-inch squares. Working with one square at a time, fold opposite corners of the pasta square together over the square’s center and pinch to seal. Place the formed pasta on a baking pan dusted with semolina flour, taking care that the fusi do not touch one another. Repeat with the remaining squares. Roll, cut and form the remaining dough.

5. Cook the fusi istriani in a large pot full of salty, boiling water. Test the pasta about 2 to 3 minutes after the salted water returns to a boil. When the pasta loses its raw taste yet is still firm to the bite, drain and add the cooked pasta into your ready sauce—fusi istriani is traditionally served with a chicken sugo—and cook the pasta and sauce together for a minute or so.

Notes

The above recipe serves 4 as a main course. I use an accordion dough cutter to create the strips and squares. If you have perfect squares, forming the shape takes very little effort. Although the fusi come together easily, you need to work quickly otherwise the pasta squares will dry out and resist sealing. (I cover the cut pasta squares with a towel until I form them.) Finally, I’ve made fusi istriani a number of times using Type 00 Pizza Flour from Central Milling in Logan, Utah. I like working with this flour, which makes delicious pasta.

Omelette

This site’s third guest Bunburyist—yes, she’s my youngest daughter—shared a favorite recipe for Pancakes (here):

She illustrated this recipe by Marion Cunningham using two characters she designed for her second year CalArt’s film. She recently finished this film and now we can see her dog in action making an omelette.

Omelette from Madeline Sharafian on Vimeo.

Those of you familiar with A Serious Bunburyist might recognize the poster at the end of Maddie’s film. Here it is again.

Congratulations on making a wonderful film, Maddie. And as I am oft to say: “That’ll do, pig. That’ll do.”

Leeks Vinaigrette Mimosa

On 23 April 1913, King George V and Queen Mary paid a visit to the town of Leek. What better way to commemorate this royal sojourn than with a souvenir cup? And now, 100 years later, what better way to celebrate this commemorative beaker than with a dish of leeks?

As my Dear Editor can attest, I have a great fondness for leeks. [Editor’s note: It’s true. He likes leeks.] One of my favorite leek recipes, Leeks Vinaigrette Mimosa, comes from The Complete Robuchon [2008] by Joël Robuchon and translated by Robin H.R. Bellinger. Mimosa refers to the dish’s hard-boiled egg garnish. Robuchon’s recipe serves 4.

8 medium leeks, white parts only

Course salt

1 hard-boiled egg, shell removed

1 tablespoon sherry vinegar

Salt

Pepper

1 teaspoon mustard

3 tablespoons neutral oil, such as grapeseed

1 shallot, peeled and minced

1 tablespoon each minced parsley, chervil, and chives

1. Carefully wash the leek whites in warm water. Tie them into little bundles so the leaves don’t separate as they cook.

2. Bring 1½ quarts (1.5 liters) water and 1 tablespoon coarse salt to a boil and add the leeks. Cook 15-20 minutes, according to their size. (You can test to see whether they are cooked by pricking one in the middle with the tip of a knife. When it is cooked, the flesh of the leek should not resist the knife at all.) Set a rack over a plate. Remove the leeks with a skimmer and set them on the rack.

3. Separate the yolk and the white of the hard-boiled egg. Crumble the yolk with a fork. Crumble the white, either by mincing it or by pressing it through a strainer with not-too-fine a screen.

4. Using a fork, beat the vinegar with 2 pinches of salt. Add a pinch of pepper and the mustard and mix. Beat in the oil.

5. Arrange the still-warm leeks side by side on a plate and dress them with the vinaigrette. Shower them evenly with the crumbled egg, shallot, and herbs.

This classic, simple dish comes together quickly and is easy to make. The sweet, soft leeks and sharp mustard vinaigrette beautifully play off of each other. Serve Leeks Vinaigrette Mimosa with a roast chicken (here) together with potatoes and you have a great meal for family, friends or visiting royalty.