Let’s celebrate the
holiday season with something sweet: rice pudding. This simple dessert plays a
special role during the Christmas season around the world, particularly in
Northern Europe. My favorite version comes from Guy Savoy: Simple French Recipes for the Home Cook [2004] by Guy
Savoy. His recipe epitomizes homemade comfort food: short-grain rice simmered
in a pot of milk and cream seasoned with vanilla and sugar. Savoy’s light and
refined rice pudding makes an excellent dessert for a special meal or Christmas
feast.
Guy Savoy:
Simple French Recipes for the Home Cook
follows-up his La Cuisine de mes Bistrots
[1998]. In his Introduction to Simple
French Recipes, Savoy writes: “I felt the need to reintroduce the art of
home cooking. And just like my previous book, this one teaches how to succeed
at what is simple….” Savoy’s presents his take on bonne femme classics: Dandelion Salad with Poached Egg; Swiss Chard
Gratin; Roasted Chicken with Mashed Potatoes; and Veal Kidneys in Mustard Sauce.
Savoy also includes recipes with a modern bent that embody the spirit of simple
food: Cold Carrot Soup with Star Anise and Mozzarella; Scallops in a Lemongrass
Nage; and Grilled Pork Ribs with Peaches.
I think the best dish in this
worthwhile cookbook is Savoy’s outstanding Rice Pudding. Its creamy rich flavor
yet surprisingly light texture makes his version a standout when compared to
other rice puddings. It tastes as sophisticated as it is simple. Savoy writes:
“For me, this is the dessert par excellence.
It took me thirty years to come up with the nerve to put it on my dessert
menu.” Here is his recipe.
Preparation Time: 5
minutes + 2 hours for chilling
Cooking Time: 1 hour
Serves: 4
½ cup short-grained white
rice
2½ cups milk
1¼ cups heavy cream
2 vanilla beans
¼ cup sugar
Place the rice in a large
saucepan. Cover with cold water and bring to a boil. Remove from heat and drain
into a strainer.
Return the rice to the pan
and add the milk and cream. Split the vanilla beans lengthwise and scrape the
seeds with the tip of a paring knife. Add the pods and seeds to the saucepan.
Bring to a boil over medium heat, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 50
minutes, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon to prevent the rice from
sticking to the bottom of the pan.
Stir in the sugar and
simmer for 10 minutes more. Pour the rice pudding into a small serving bowl,
discarding the vanilla beans. Refrigerate for 2 hours. Serve the pudding at
room temperature.
Savoy’s Rice Pudding is
one of many excellent recipes in Simple
French Recipes for the Home Cook. If this simple, straightforward cooking
appeals to you, take a look at Vegetable
Magic [1987], another strong Savoy cookbook. It is full of satisfying
dishes in the style of Simple French
Recipes for the Home Cook. Although not a vegetarian cookbook, vegetables
play the starring role throughout.
With your rice pudding
made, you are ready for the holidays. Wishing you a Merry Christmas and a happy,
healthy and prosperous New Year.
