On 23 April 1913, King
George V and Queen Mary paid a visit to the town of Leek. What better way to
commemorate this royal sojourn than with a souvenir cup? And now, 100 years
later, what better way to celebrate this commemorative beaker than with a dish of
leeks?
As my Dear Editor can
attest, I have a great fondness for leeks. [Editor’s
note: It’s true. He likes leeks.] One of my favorite leek recipes, Leeks
Vinaigrette Mimosa, comes from The
Complete Robuchon [2008] by Joël Robuchon and translated by Robin H.R.
Bellinger. Mimosa refers to the dish’s hard-boiled egg garnish. Robuchon’s
recipe serves 4.
8 medium leeks, white
parts only
Course salt
1 hard-boiled egg, shell
removed
1 tablespoon sherry
vinegar
Salt
Pepper
1 teaspoon mustard
3 tablespoons neutral oil,
such as grapeseed
1 shallot, peeled and
minced
1 tablespoon each minced
parsley, chervil, and chives
1. Carefully wash the leek
whites in warm water. Tie them into little bundles so the leaves don’t separate
as they cook.
2. Bring 1½ quarts (1.5 liters)
water and 1 tablespoon coarse salt to a boil and add the leeks. Cook 15-20
minutes, according to their size. (You can test to see whether they are cooked
by pricking one in the middle with the tip of a knife. When it is cooked, the
flesh of the leek should not resist the knife at all.) Set a rack over a plate.
Remove the leeks with a skimmer and set them on the rack.
3. Separate the yolk and
the white of the hard-boiled egg. Crumble the yolk with a fork. Crumble the
white, either by mincing it or by pressing it through a strainer with not-too-fine
a screen.
4. Using a fork, beat the
vinegar with 2 pinches of salt. Add a pinch of pepper and the mustard and mix.
Beat in the oil.
5. Arrange the still-warm
leeks side by side on a plate and dress them with the vinaigrette. Shower them
evenly with the crumbled egg, shallot, and herbs.
This classic, simple dish
comes together quickly and is easy to make. The sweet, soft leeks and sharp
mustard vinaigrette beautifully play off of each other. Serve Leeks Vinaigrette
Mimosa with a roast chicken (here) together with potatoes and you have a great
meal for family, friends or visiting royalty.
